Hienghène is a small Kanak town on the northeast coast of Grande Terre, surrounded by some of the most dramatic scenery in New Caledonia. The dark limestone formations rising from the turquoise water of the bay are unmistakable — the most famous, the Poule de Hienghène, really does look like a brooding hen when seen from the right angle.
The area is strongly Kanak in character, with tribal lands, customary authority, and a pace of life that runs slower than Nouméa. The reef offshore offers excellent snorkelling and diving, and the surrounding hills are covered in dense tropical forest. This is not resort New Caledonia — facilities are basic and you will need a car — but for anyone wanting to see the real Grande Terre beyond the capital, Hienghène is one of the most rewarding stops on the northeast coast road.