Phoenice — Phoinike to the Greeks, Finiq today — was the capital of the Chaonians, the most powerful of the three Greek tribes of ancient Epirus, and at its 3rd-century BC peak the richest city of the region. The ruins occupy a long, defensible hill rising 280 metres above the fertile valley south of Delvina; on a clear day you can see the Greek border, the mountains around Gjirokastër, and the sea at Saranda.
The Albanian-Italian archaeological mission has been excavating since 2000 and uncovered a substantial theatre, agora, baths, a Byzantine basilica, and the impressive Hellenistic city walls. The site is much less polished than the better-known Butrint, but the lack of crowds and the sweeping views from the upper terrace more than compensate. Allow at least two hours, wear sturdy shoes, and bring water.