Tavush is Armenia's greenest corner — a tangle of forested ridges, river valleys, and ancient monasteries tucked into the northeast of the country. Where much of Armenia is dry and stony, Tavush is lush, with a mild climate and landscapes that genuinely justify the well-worn comparison to Switzerland.
The main road through the region connects the resort town of Dilijan to the regional capital Ijevan, passing through some of the country's finest scenery along the way. Most visitors stop at Dilijan and the great monasteries near it — Haghartsin and Goshavank — and consider themselves done. That leaves most of Tavush entirely to themselves.
Beyond Dilijan, Ijevan is a pleasant small city on the Aghstev River, the kind of place where life proceeds at an unhurried pace. North of Ijevan, the village of Yenokavan guards a deep canyon with caves bearing ancient carvings, waterfalls, and wild rivers. Further north still, Makaravank Monastery and the small city of Noyemberian — with its nearby Mshkavank Monastery and Berdavan Castle — reward those willing to push on.
The forests around Kirants, near the Georgian border, hide three monasteries — Arakelots, Deghtsnuti, and Kirants — along a river valley accessible by dirt road. A GPS helps, but they are not hard to find.
Furthest from the main tourist circuit is Shamshadin, surrounding the town of Berd. In the forested hills here sit three more monasteries — Nor Varagavank, Shkhmuradi, and Khoranashat — that almost no western visitor ever reaches. If you have the time and a vehicle, this is one of the most rewarding detours in Armenia.
