Martyrs' Lane is a long alley of black granite tombs running along the ridge of Highland Park, with photographs etched onto each headstone. It commemorates the civilian victims of the Soviet army's January 1990 crackdown and, in a second section, the dead of the first Nagorno-Karabakh war.
At the far end, an eternal flame stands inside a small modernist memorial that faces out across the bay. It is one of the most charged places in the country — Azerbaijani schoolchildren are routinely brought here — and worth visiting both for the history and the view. Photographs are fine; loud voices and casual behaviour are not.