Azerbaijani cooking is one of the more underrated cuisines of the former Soviet world. It draws on Turkic, Persian, and Caucasian traditions, and uses saffron, pomegranate, dried fruit, and fresh herbs in combinations that feel both familiar and distinct.
Plov (rice pilaf) is the centrepiece of any serious meal. There are said to be over 200 varieties; the classic version is saffron-stained rice cooked with lamb, dried apricots, raisins, and chestnuts, served with a crisp rice crust called gazmag at the bottom of the pot. In restaurants it arrives as a substantial dish; at a family table it is likely the main event of an elaborate spread.
Qutab are thin folded pancakes, griddled and stuffed with either minced meat, fresh herbs and cheese, or pumpkin. You will find them for a few manats from street vendors and teahouses across the country. Eat them hot, with plain yoghurt or sour cream.
Piti is the signature dish of Sheki and the surrounding region: a slow-cooked stew of mutton, chickpeas, and dried plum, prepared in an individual glazed clay pot and simmered for at least nine hours. The correct technique is to break the fatty layer on top, pour the broth over torn bread, eat that separately, then eat the solid stew with the bread. Ask someone to show you.
Dolma in Azerbaijan means vine leaves — or in summer, peppers and aubergines — stuffed with a spiced mixture of lamb, rice, and fresh herbs. It is a festive dish, laborious to prepare, and widely available in restaurants.
Lavangi is from Lankaran in the south: whole fish or chicken stuffed with a paste of crushed walnuts, onions, pomegranate molasses, and sour plums. The contrast between the rich stuffing and the slight tartness is remarkable.
Tea is not optional. Black tea in the pear-shaped armudu glass is how every social interaction begins, regardless of time of day. It is served with jam (often from sour cherry or fig), sugar held between the teeth in the traditional style, and sometimes sweets. Refusing tea is rude; accepting a second glass is polite.
Baku has a strong restaurant scene by regional standards, from upmarket Azerbaijani cooking in the old city to cheap pide shops and a growing number of international options. Outside the capital, the quality drops but the hospitality increases — a roadside chaikana will usually produce something honest and good for very little money.