The main thermal baths complex sits on the hillside above the town, reached by a cable car (téléphérique) from the town centre — the ride up is part of the experience, with views across the valley. Inside, there are indoor and outdoor thermal pools, saunas, steam rooms, and a full menu of treatments from basic bathing to full spa packages. The outdoor pool overlooking the Ardennes hills is particularly good on a cold day.
You can come just for the pools without booking treatments in advance, though treatments fill up fast at weekends. The complex is modern and well-run, without the faded grandeur of the town below — but the combination of mineral water and mountain air is exactly what people have been coming to Spa for since the 16th century.