A mehana in the traditional Bulgarian sense: a tavern serving the full range of Bulgarian mezze alongside grilled meats and substantial main courses, in a setting that leans into the folk-revival aesthetic of old wood, hand-embroidered textiles, and rakiya served in earthenware jugs. Staria Chinar — "the old plane tree" — is the sort of place that does shopska salad, kavarma, and kyufte properly, without apology or reinvention.
The old town quarter of Varna has a handful of restaurants like this, and they vary in quality from genuinely good to tourist-trap. This one has held its standards. Order the shopska salad, whatever grilled dish the waiter recommends, and a carafe of the house white. The bread comes warm from the oven. The portions are large. Do not plan anything taxing for the afternoon.