Varna eats well for a city its size. The Black Sea delivers fresh fish — black sea bass, sprat, turbot — and the city's mehana tradition means you can find well-executed Bulgarian mezze in unassuming restaurants around the old town. Grilled fish by the harbour, shopska salad in a courtyard, cold Kamenitza beer: the formula is simple and it works.
The centre has an expanding roster of more international options, but the Bulgarian tavern remains the best value. Look for places away from the sea garden's tourist circuit — the neighbourhood restaurants a few blocks inland tend to be cheaper and more authentic.