Muhu is small enough to see in a day but rewarding enough to linger for two. The island's main pleasures are its 13th-century church — one of the oldest in Estonia, with pagan carvings built into the walls — and Koguva, a western-tip village that looks much as it did a century ago. Beyond the historic sites, the island has an excellent network of cycling paths threading through juniper meadows and past working windmills, and its nature reserves attract serious birdwatchers chasing the same wading birds that stop here on the Baltic migration route.