Nólsoy village clusters tightly around its harbour on the island's northern end, its colourful timber houses stacked up the hillside behind the church and the small stone pier. With a population of around 250, it has one shop, one cafe, and a church — the basics. The arch made from whale jawbones at the harbour entrance announces immediately that this is a place with its own way of doing things.
The village is small enough to walk in ten minutes, but it rewards slower exploration. The church is the focal point of island social life and holds a small collection of historical objects. The cafe opens for the ferry arrivals and is the right place to shelter if the weather closes in. The viewpoint on the lower slope above the village gives you the classic view back across the sound to Tórshavn's coloured rooftops and the hills of Streymoy behind.
If you are spending the night, the island has a handful of self-catering options available through local contacts — ask at the cafe or through Visit Faroe Islands. The atmosphere in the evenings, with the petrel calls starting up from the hillside and the lights of Tórshavn reflected in the water, is exactly what you come to the Faroes for.