Dune du Pilat

The Dune du Pilat is an extraordinary geological spectacle — 110 metres of pure Atlantic sand piled up at the southern end of the Arcachon bay, where the forest meets the sea. Climbing it takes about ten minutes, and the view from the top is worth the effort: the Arcachon bay on one side, the endless pine forests of the Landes on the other, and the Atlantic coast curving away to the horizon. On a clear day you can make out the Île aux Oiseaux in the bay below.

The base is about 8 kilometres south of central Arcachon by the D218 road; there's a large (paid) car park, or you can cycle along the beach path from town. The descent to the Atlantic beach on the western side is extremely steep and loose — getting back up is harder than it looks. The beach at the bottom is magnificent and often less crowded than the Arcachon town beaches, because fewer people make the return climb. Go early in summer to avoid the queues for the staircase and the worst of the heat.

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The Dune du Pilat advances roughly one to three metres inland every year, slowly swallowing the pine trees behind it — you can see their dead tops sticking out of the sand on the dune's eastern face. The dune has grown from around 35 metres in the 18th century to over 110 metres today, making it the tallest sand dune in Europe. A staircase now handles the main ascent, but the dune needs constant management as the crowds erode the sides faster than the wind can rebuild them.