Auvergnat Cuisine

Truffade, aligot, and Saint-Nectaire — hearty mountain food done properly

Auvergnat cuisine is one of the most distinctive regional traditions in France, built on the produce of a high-altitude farming region: pork, potatoes, and above all cheese. The most famous dish is truffade — sliced potatoes fried slowly with lard until soft, then mixed with fresh Cantal cheese until it melts into a rich, stringy mass. It is simple, filling, and good. Aligot, the even more elastic potato-and-cheese preparation from the Aubrac plateau (just south of the Auvergne), appears on most menus in the region.

Saint-Nectaire cheese — soft, mild, with a slightly mushroomy flavour from its affinage in the volcanic caves of the Massif Central — is the cheese most associated with Clermont-Ferrand and available everywhere here at a quality impossible to replicate outside the region. The restaurants around Place de Jaude and the streets between the cathedral and Notre-Dame du Port are the most reliable zone for traditional Auvergnat cooking. Avoid tourist traps; look for menus that feature local cheeses by name.

eating out food
A story
The Auvergne is home to five of France's AOC cheeses: Saint-Nectaire, Cantal, Salers, Fourme d'Ambert, and Bleu d'Auvergne. Truffade — potatoes fried with fresh Cantal — is the foundational local dish. Aligot, the elastic cheese-and-mashed-potato preparation from the southern Aubrac plateau, is close enough to be on most menus. The regional cuisines are deeply unfashionable in Paris, which makes them all the more authentic here.

Other places in Eating Out