The old centre of Millau is small enough to walk through in an hour but pretty enough to come back to. The Place du Maréchal Foch — locals just call it Place Foch — is an arcaded square with cafés on every side, lined by stone houses with covered walkways. The octagonal belfry of the Église Notre-Dame de l'Espinasse rises a couple of blocks away.
The medieval Pont Vieux on the Tarn lost most of its arches in the floods of the seventeenth century but the surviving stub still carries an old watermill, the Moulin du Pont. The pedestrianised streets between the square and the river are good for an evening drink. The weekly market on Friday morning, spread across Place Foch and the surrounding lanes, is where Millauins buy their cheese and produce.