The hill of Vézelay itself — la colline éternelle, as it is known locally — is worth experiencing as a landscape. The views from the terrace beside the basilica extend over the Cure valley and across the rolling Burgundian hills in every direction: vines, forest, and the occasional village spire. On a clear day the scene looks much as it would have to a medieval pilgrim arriving after weeks on the road from Paris or Tours.
A path circles the hill below the village walls, passing through orchards and vineyards. The Vézelay appellation produces wine in the surrounding area — mostly Chardonnay — and some of the vineyards are walkable from the village. The best time to appreciate the hill's character is early morning or at dusk, when the tour buses have gone.