The Musée d'Art Moderne is housed in the former bishop's palace next to the cathedral, and holds one of the finest Fauvist collections in France outside Paris. The collection was assembled by Pierre and Denise Lévy, a pair of local textile industrialists who spent decades buying works at a time when the Fauves were still unfashionable, and donated it to the city in 1976.
The Fauve holdings — Derain, Vlaminck, Matisse, Braque — are the core of the museum, but the collection extends into African art, sculpture, and drawings. Given Troyes' size, the quality here is genuinely surprising. Closed Tuesdays.