The Place des Lices is the town's real centre of gravity — a shaded square of plane trees where locals play pétanque and the twice-weekly market sprawls under the old stone façades. On Tuesday and Saturday mornings, it becomes one of the best markets on the Riviera: Provençal fabrics, vegetables, olives, cheese, fish fresh from the morning's catch, and artisans selling everything from handmade sandals to lavender sachets.
The rest of the week it is cafe territory. Café des Arts and the Café de la Mairie have been fixtures for generations. The square fills in the evenings with locals who've been here long enough to remember when the yachts were ordinary fishing boats. Sit with a Pastis, watch the pétanque, and you get a sense of what the village was before Bardot arrived.