The Vieux Port is both the town's heart and its greatest spectacle. Painted houses in faded ochre, blue, and terracotta line the quay, and between them are moored some of the largest private yachts in the world — a display of wealth so extravagant it circles back to being entertaining. Walk the length of the harbour in the morning before the crowds arrive, when the fishermen are still unloading and the cafe terraces are setting up.
The quay itself is lined with cafes and restaurants that trade heavily on the view; the prices reflect it. The Sénéquier — red parasols, impossible to miss — has been here since 1887 and remains excellent for coffee and watching the harbour. The afternoon light on the painted facades is why the painters came; the evening light is better still.