Saumur is at its best between late May and early October. July brings the Carrousel de Saumur, the Cadre Noir's annual public spectacle — book accommodation well in advance if you plan to attend. The Loire's mild summers and reliable light make it a comfortable destination even in August, though weekends can be busy with French holiday traffic from Paris.
Autumn is the wine harvest and the time to taste the new vintage; the surrounding vineyards are still open and the colour along the river is striking. Winter is quiet — many of the smaller museums and cave attractions reduce their hours or close entirely between November and March — but the château remains open and the town is restful.