Tmogvi Fortress

Tmogvi, also known by its Armenian name Tmkaberd, is the ruined fortress and medieval town that looms on a rocky spur directly above Tsunda, on the left bank of the Kura River. The walls and towers cling to near-vertical cliffs at a height that made direct assault nearly impossible — the gorge below provides a natural moat on three sides.

The ruins are extensive and largely unrestored. Walking up from the river requires a scramble over loose rock; the path is not marked but the route is visible from below. Once at the walls, the views down the Kura valley toward Vardzia are spectacular. On clear days the volcanic cone of Abul Mountain is visible to the north. This is one of the most atmospheric medieval ruins in the Samtskhe-Javakheti region, and sees far fewer visitors than Vardzia.

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A story
Tmogvi was one of the most formidable fortresses in medieval Georgia. When the Mongol commander Argoun Khan besieged it in 1283, the defenders held out so long that the Mongols had to divert the Kura River to cut off the water supply. The ruins visible today are mostly 10th–13th century, from the period when Tmogvi served as one of the key strongholds of the Javakheti princes.