Above the Church of the Assumption, a rough path leads up to the bell tower and the upper terraces of the cave city. This is the least-visited part of the complex and gives you the clearest sense of how the rooms stack up against the cliff. From here you can look out across the Kura River gorge and see the full extent of the site stretched below you.
The bell tower itself is a small medieval structure, still standing, with a view that makes the climb worthwhile. Early morning is best — the cliff faces east, and the light hits directly for about two hours after sunrise. By midday the site is in partial shade on the lower levels and full glare on the upper ones.