The cave city of Vardzia is the main reason people come here, and it does not disappoint. You approach on a path from the ticket booth by the river, then climb up through the rock-cut corridors, chambers, and stairwells that once housed a community of monks and soldiers. The site spans roughly 500 metres of cliff face and rises 13 storeys at its tallest.
Most of what survives today is the skeleton of the original complex: bare rock rooms, narrow connecting tunnels, and the occasional carved niche or shelf. A few chambers retain traces of painted plaster. The labyrinth is partly roped off, but you can wander freely through a substantial section. Bring a torch — some of the deeper corridors are pitch dark.
The site is active: a small community of Georgian Orthodox monks still lives here, and you may encounter them going about their day. The monks are generally welcoming but private. Dress modestly and move quietly in the sections near their cells.