Perched on a volcanic plug above the Kura River gorge, about 4 kilometres downstream (north) of Vardzia, Tmogvi is a ruined medieval fortress that most visitors miss entirely. The approach involves a steep scramble up loose rock — there is no formal path — and the climb takes about 30 minutes from the valley floor.
At the top, the remains of the castle tower and walls sit on a narrow summit with dizzying drops on three sides. The views up and down the gorge are among the best in this part of Georgia. In good weather you can see Vardzia's cliff face to the south. It is worth combining with a visit to Vardzia on the same day, though you will need your own vehicle to reach the trailhead.