On the harbor waterfront, the Bonbonkocherei is a traditional sweet shop where you can watch candy being made by hand in copper kettles according to old methods. The process is unhurried and entirely transparent — the caramelized sugar is pulled, twisted, and cut in full view of visitors — and the shop smells extraordinary. It is the kind of place that exists without irony or re-branding, simply doing the same thing it has done for generations.
A small selection of sweets is sold over the counter, most of them flavored with the Baltic herbs and berry tastes typical of the region. It is a worthwhile stop even if you buy nothing, and a good spot to buy an edible souvenir that isn't smoked fish.