Vaporia is the aristocratic quarter of Ermoupoli, clinging to the cliffs above the sea to the east of the main harbour. This is where the wealthy sea captains and merchants of the 19th century built their mansions — handsome neoclassical facades in ochre, terracotta, and deep blue, with wrought-iron balconies overlooking the Aegean.
The streets here are quieter than the main commercial town, and there is a small cove at the foot of the cliffs where locals swim year-round. Wandering through Vaporia is free; the best approach is to head east from Plateia Miaouli along the waterfront and then climb into the residential streets above. The neighbourhood is best seen in the late afternoon light, when the facades glow and the sea below turns metallic.