The ceramics of Margit Kovács occupy a small Baroque house on Apáca utca, near the cathedral, and it is one of the most rewarding small museums in Hungary. Kovács (1902–1977) was a sculptor and ceramicist who fused Hungarian folk traditions with a modernist sensibility — her figures are elongated, expressive, and strange in the best possible way.
The collection covers her career from student pieces to the monumental figures she made in old age. There are angels, peasant women, biblical scenes, and abstract forms, all in her distinctive matte glazes of cream, ochre, and terracotta. Allow 45 minutes and go slowly — the pieces reward close attention. The museum is small enough to feel intimate rather than institutional.