Avoca's appeal is simple: a pretty valley, an ancient mill, and good walking country. The village is small enough to cover in a morning, but the surrounding Wicklow hills reward anyone willing to lace up and head out. The Vale of Avoca — Thomas Moore's "meeting of the waters" — is the signature sight, and the handloom mill is the place to understand how this corner of County Wicklow has made its living for three centuries.