The centro storico of Cosenza occupies the hill above the river confluence, clustered around the castle. It is largely free of tourist infrastructure — few international visitors come here — which gives it an authenticity that southern Italian historic centres with more famous names have lost.
The old town's streets are steep and narrow, with medieval churches, crumbling palazzi, and a handful of bars and restaurants serving the small resident population. The Accademia Cosentina, founded in 1511 and still functioning as a learned society, is one of the oldest academies in the world and has its home here. The atmosphere on summer evenings, when residents take their passeggiata through the lanes, is distinctly un-touristed and worth experiencing.