Osteria del Sole

A wine bar open since 1465, where you bring your own food

Address Vicolo Ranocchi 1/D

Tucked down an alley off Via degli Orefici in the Quadrilatero, the Osteria del Sole has been pouring wine since 1465 — almost certainly Bologna's oldest continuously operating drinking establishment. The rules have not changed much: wine and beer at the bar, paper cups, no food served.

The trick is that the surrounding alleys are full of salumerie and cheese shops; you buy your own bread, cured meats, and cheese, and bring them in to share at one of the communal tables. Lunchtime is the busiest moment, with workers and students improvising charcuterie boards over half-litre carafes of local red. Cash only.

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