This fine city merits more than just a one-night visit. Bologna (pop. 422,000) has gardens, museums, parks, fine buildings, churches, and miles of shopping streets -- and don't forget the great food. Sometimes called "Bologna the fat," this city is a great place to indulge yourself.
Other names for Bologna include "Bologna the learned" and "Bologna the red." The first refers to the presence of the oldest still-existing university in Europe, founded in 1088. The university's presence is quite noticeable, in terms of cultural activities, bars, and general life. "Bologna the red" officially refers to the red roofs of the city. If you climb the Torre degli Asinelli you can see it for yourself. However, the intellectual left also had a strong presence in Bologna, which could be another explanation of the name.
The city is alive and it is changing from year to year. It has known quite a turbulent past. In the fascist era, some awful buildings were planted in the city. The area around the train station was bombed extensively during the war and some of the beautiful nineteenth-century houses were lost. Fortunately, Bologna is actively restoring its past and these recent decades have been good ones. In 2000 Bologna was a European Capital of Culture.
Start by climbing the Torre degli Asinelli for a great view. Most of the sights are clustered around Piazza Maggiore, which makes a great starting point. Visit the seven churches of Santo Stefano, the sixteenth-century Neptune Fountain, and the Archiginnasio -- Europe's oldest university building, with a remarkable anatomical theatre. Walk along Strada Maggiore in the well-preserved medieval town centre. The Pinacoteca Nazionale has an excellent collection of Italian Renaissance art. For modern art, the Museo Morandi houses more than 200 works by twentieth-century painter Giorgio Morandi. Don't miss the harrowing Lamentation in Santa Maria della Vita, the dense food alleys of the Quadrilatero, and the long uphill portico to the Sanctuary of San Luca.
From Bologna, Modena is a short trip northwest, with an impressive Romanesque cathedral and its famous Ghirlandina bell tower. Modena is also the home of Ferrari and Maserati. Further west is Parma, famous for its food. An hour south is Florence, and an hour east is Ravenna, the ancient capital of the Western Roman Empire with its magnificent Byzantine churches.
Tourist information: Ufficio Informazioni e Accoglienza Turistica, Piazza Maggiore 1/E, tel. 051-246 541. On the central square, with helpful staff and good leaflets. Ask about the guided city tours.