Via del Pratello runs west from the city centre into a slightly grittier, slightly more left-wing district that was once the working-class edge of Bologna. The street is now a long ribbon of osterie, jazz clubs, vintage shops, and political bookstores — the kind of nightlife area where Bolognese go and tourists rarely venture.
In summer the entire street eats and drinks outside on plastic chairs. The local social centres host concerts and meetings. The food is solid and traditional — tagliatelle al ragù, tortellini in brodo — rather than experimental. Start the evening at one of the wine bars and follow the crowd.