Castello di Torrechiara rises from the foothills south of Parma, looking exactly like the fortified-romantic castle travellers hope Emilia-Romagna might hide between vineyards and villages. It was built in the 15th century by Pier Maria II de' Rossi and still has the strong towers and curtain walls of a serious defensive site.
Inside, the mood changes from military to courtly, especially in the frescoed rooms associated with Rossi and Bianca Pellegrini. It is a very worthwhile half-day trip from Parma, particularly if you want something grander than another church or food stop.