The promenade around both bays is lined with cafes and bars, and the old town streets have their own good options. Aperitivo hour — roughly 6 to 8 pm — is the best time to join the passeggiata and settle into a table with a Ligurian Vermentino or a Campari soda and watch the light change on the water.
Il Polpino on Via Cappuccini is a wine bar worth seeking out specifically for Ligurian whites — Vermentino, Pigato, and Bianchetta Genovese, which are rarely found outside the region. The bar food is good enough for a light evening meal.