The crotti of Chiavenna are one of the most distinctive eating experiences in the Alps. These natural rock cellars are formed where cold air seeps from cracks in the glacial boulders above town, and for generations the people of Chiavenna have built terraces, walls, and eventually full restaurants against these rock faces, using the constant cold temperature inside to store food and wine.
Today about a dozen crotti operate as restaurants and bars. The most atmospheric cluster is on the edge of town toward Piuro, where the old stone walls and vine-covered terraces have been in continuous use since at least the sixteenth century. The food is straightforward alpine: bresaola, pizzoccheri (buckwheat pasta with cabbage, potato, and cheese), polenta, local cheeses, and wine from the Valchiavenna. Come for lunch rather than dinner — the crotti tend to wind down by evening, and the light is better in the afternoon.