A short walk south of the historic centre, Palazzo Te is one of the finest Mannerist buildings in Italy and a project that Giulio Romano — Raphael's most brilliant student — designed as a summer retreat for Federico II Gonzaga in the 1520s. The deliberately "incorrect" classical architecture (triglyphs that appear to be slipping, keystones that seem out of place) is a sophisticated joke aimed at learned visitors who would appreciate the departures from canon.
Inside, the frescoed rooms are progressively more spectacular. The Sala dei Cavalli celebrates six of Federico's prize horses — painted life-size with their names and coats recorded in precise detail. The Camera di Amore e Psiche covers every surface with scenes from Apuleius, painted with a frank sensuality that surprised even contemporaries. But the Sala dei Giganti is the climax: Giulio Romano painted the defeat of the Giants by Jupiter across every wall and the entire ceiling without a frame or border, creating the impression of total architectural collapse around the viewer.
The building now houses the Civic Museum of Palazzo Te, which includes the collection of works by Federico Zeri and a good Egyptian section. Entry is separate from the Palazzo Ducale.