The almond is Toritto's pride. The Filippo Cea variety, also called the Mandorla di Toritto, has a thin, papery shell and a soft, sweet kernel high in oil — flavours that pastry chefs across Italy seek out for their pasta reale, confetti, and almond paste. The trees, gnarled and silvery, cover the hills around the town in patches still farmed largely by hand.
In late February and early March the orchards burst into pale-pink blossom, briefly turning the Murgia into something out of a Japanese painting. The harvest happens in late August. Several producers around Toritto sell direct — ask at the town hall or look for signs along the road to Grumo Appula. A bag of raw almonds, a bottle of almond oil, or a packet of confetti make the journey worthwhile.