Just north of the village walls, a network of Etruscan tombs is cut into the soft tufa cliffs. The site is unsupervised and free to wander, which means you can step inside the dim chambers where families were laid out 2,500 years ago. The finest pieces — bronze candelabra, painted urns, a famous set of mirrors — were excavated in the 19th century and dispersed to museums.
Wear sturdy shoes; the path is uneven and the tombs flood after rain. The most impressive single grave is the Tomba del Tridente, named for the bronze trident found inside. Information panels in Italian and patchy English point out what is what. Allow an hour, take a torch, and combine the visit with a walk along the Roman section of the Via Clodia that runs through the same ravine.