The formal spa lies a few hundred metres up the road from the free waterfall pools, on the site where the water first surfaces. It is centred on a single large thermal pool — the original spring, fenced and landscaped — and surrounded by a five-star hotel, a saltwater pool complex, a Roman-style hammam, and four restaurants. Day passes are sold for the pools and wellness areas without staying at the hotel; book ahead in summer.
The selling point over the free waterfalls is comfort: sunbeds, towels, changing rooms with hairdryers, and a sense of order. The catch is the price, which is roughly what you would pay at a smart spa anywhere in Europe. Treatments range from straightforward massages to multi-day medical detox programmes. The food at the hotel restaurant is good but expensive; the on-site cafés are cheaper if you just want lunch between dips.