The Sunday market spreads along the whole length of the waterfront and is the village's main set piece. The fish stalls — the original reason for the market — line the central section: ice-packed swordfish, tuna, octopus, prawns, and, in autumn, lampuki (dorado), the season's iconic catch. Around them, stalls sell honey, capers preserved in salt and vinegar, sun-dried tomatoes, Maltese sweets, lace tablecloths, and tourist tat.
Come early — by 09:00 the market is busy and by 10:30 it's properly crowded. Many of the harbour restaurants set up extra tables; cold beer, a pile of grilled fish, and a view of the luzzu boats jostling in the bay is a fine end to the morning. The market also runs on weekdays in a smaller form, mostly handicrafts and produce, but Sunday is the day worth coming for.