The cliffs south of Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra offer the best view in Malta of Filfla, the tiny uninhabited islet two miles offshore. The cliff path is unfenced limestone, the air smells of wild thyme, and on a clear afternoon Filfla sits flat and pale on the sea like a sleeping animal. In late summer the cliffs are pink with caper flowers.
The walk along the coast from the temples back toward the road is short — about a kilometre — and gives a sense of why the prehistoric builders chose this ridge. There is no railing in places; keep small children close and stay back from the edge in wind.