Heddal Stave Church

Heddal Stave Church is the largest of the 28 surviving stave churches in Norway, a triple-naved wooden structure of pitch-blackened pine that rises in tiers of dragon-decorated roofs above a stone-walled churchyard. It was built around 1250, repaired and extended over the centuries, and remains a working parish church of the Church of Norway.

The exterior is the principal spectacle: shingled gables stack one above another, ridge-crests carved with dragons, and a slender bell tower at the top. The interior is darker and more modest than the outside suggests, but rewards a slow visit. Look for the Bishop's Chair — a 13th-century carved wooden seat with elaborate runic and figural decoration — and traces of original 17th-century rose painting in the chancel. The church is open to visitors from late May to early September; modest entrance fee. Sunday services continue year-round.

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A story
Local folklore says Heddal Stave Church was built in three days by a troll named Finn, who agreed to construct it for the farmer Raud Rygi on the condition that Raud guess his name. As Finn put the spire on the roof, Raud overheard Finn's wife singing a lullaby with his name in it — and so escaped having to forfeit his eyes and heart to the troll.