Steilneset Memorial

Peter Zumthor and Louise Bourgeois's memorial to 91 people burned as witches in 17th-century Finnmark

The Steilneset Memorial consists of two buildings designed as a collaboration between Swiss architect Peter Zumthor and the late French-American artist Louise Bourgeois. The first is a long, tent-like timber and canvas structure suspended from a timber rack — inside, 91 lighted windows line the walls, one for each person burned, each accompanied by a text describing who they were and what they were accused of. The effect is extraordinarily moving.

The second building, also by Zumthor but containing Bourgeois's final artwork, is a dark pavilion housing a burning chair suspended above a series of mirrors — a confrontation with fire, justice, and memory. Bourgeois died in 2010, the year before the memorial opened; it was her last major work. The two structures stand at the edge of the sea on the western tip of Vardøya, exposed to the wind. Allow at least an hour; this is not a place to rush through.

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The memorial commemorates one of the largest witch trials in Scandinavian history: between 1601 and 1692, 91 people in Finnmark were convicted of witchcraft and burned — mostly Sami and Norwegian fishing families accused by their neighbours or by the authorities. The trials peaked in the 1620s, when the area's Norwegian governor oversaw dozens of executions. Unlike the Salem trials, this episode is little known outside Norway; the memorial was opened in 2011 to change that.