The district stretching east of the Old Town toward the Vistula, a mostly residential quarter of 19th- and early-20th-century apartment blocks that has quietly become one of the city's better places to eat and shop for food. Grzegórzki lacks the headline monuments of the centre, and that is rather the point: it is where Cracovians actually live, and where everyday Krakow goes about its business.
Its landmark is the Hala Targowa, the open-air market on Plac Targowy, busiest on Sunday mornings when it doubles as a sprawling flea market of antiques, books, vinyl, and bric-a-brac. Nearby, the green ribbon of the Bulwary Wiślane — the Vistula embankments — runs along the river, lined with walking and cycling paths and, in summer, moored barge-bars. The district also holds the Galeria Kazimierz shopping centre and a string of well-regarded neighbourhood restaurants along Grzegórzecka.
Grzegórzki is worth a wander for travellers who want the unvarnished version of the city. Come for the Sunday market, follow the riverbank back toward Wawel, and stop wherever the locals are eating.