Livraria Lello is famous, and it handles the fame reasonably well. The narrow neo-Gothic facade on Rua das Carmelitas gives way to an interior of carved wooden shelves, a spectacular red double staircase curving to the upper level, and a stained-glass skylight casting coloured light across the books below. It is genuinely beautiful, and the pictures do not lie — though the experience is more crowded than the pictures suggest.
The bookshop charges an entrance fee (around €5) that is redeemable against purchases. This sensible arrangement keeps the worst of the tourist flow in check and encourages people to actually buy something. The collection is strong on Portuguese literature in English translation — this is a good place to pick up Fernando Pessoa, Jose Saramago, or Eca de Queiros before exploring the city they wrote about. Come early on weekday mornings for the best experience.