The Plaza Mayor is one of the most striking medieval squares in Spain — a vast, elongated space paved in stone and lined on both sides by arcaded porticoes of honey-coloured limestone. The arches are low and irregular, carved at different heights and dates across several centuries, which gives the square a handmade quality quite unlike anything formal or Renaissance.
At the east end stands the Romanesque bell tower of Santa María; at the west, a path leads up to the castle walls. The square is largely car-free and uncrowded outside peak summer, and in the evening — when the stone takes on a warm amber light — it is genuinely beautiful.
A handful of restaurants and bars have tables under the arcades. In summer the square fills with hikers and day-trippers; come in May or October and you may have it largely to yourself.