Empuriabrava is the odd modern half of the municipality: a huge marina development cut through with canals, private moorings and holiday villas. It is not medieval, not subtle and not especially Catalan in mood, but it is memorable in its own way.
Come for a look rather than for romance. Boat trips through the canals show the scale of the place, and the beach gives you the open Bay of Roses after the tight lanes of Castello. It is also useful for services, restaurants and water-based activities in summer.