Gratallops is the Priorat village many wine travellers picture before they arrive: stone houses, steep lanes, vineyard terraces and big-name cellars clustered in a settlement that still feels tiny. It is a good place to understand how intense and concentrated the region's wine culture has become.
Come with a tasting booked rather than hoping to drift from cellar to cellar. The village is small, opening hours vary, and the best experiences are usually arranged in advance. Even without a formal tasting, the views across the slate slopes justify the detour.