Café Sant Jaume

A former 19th-century apothecary turned bar, with the original marble counter, dark wood shelving, and apothecary cabinets still intact behind the bar. It is one of the classic places to drink an agua de Valencia — the local cocktail of cava, vodka, gin, and freshly squeezed orange juice that was invented in another bar nearby in the 1950s but is poured here as well as anywhere.

On a warm evening the small terrace on Calle Caballeros, in the heart of El Carmen, is the prime sit-and-watch-the-passeggiata spot. Open from late afternoon; pretty busy on weekends.

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