Inside the Mercado Central — set against one of the columns under the great glass dome — the Michelin-starred chef Ricard Camarena's all-day tapas counter. The format is informal: stand or perch at the bar, order from a short list of bocadillos, small plates, oysters from the market across the aisle, all turned around fast and good.
Lunch only and impossible to book — you queue at the entrance. Worth it for the combination of cathedral-of-iron setting and one of Spain's best chefs at a market-counter price.