The medieval quarter inside the Torres de Serranos and Torres de Quart, El Carmen is a tangle of narrow streets, painted shutters, and ornate squares — Valencia's most atmospheric district to wander, especially in the evening. It is the city's traditional arty bohemian neighbourhood, full of small bars, vintage shops, independent galleries, and decades of accumulated street art (the strip along Calle Moret has some of the best murals in Spain).
The Plaza del Tossal and the Plaza del Carme are the natural anchor points. The IVAM contemporary art museum sits on the northern edge; the church of San Nicolás is tucked in the middle; and the bar streets of Calle Caballeros run east-west through the heart of it. Avoid Thursday and Friday nights if you want to sleep.