Jamtli

Jamtli is an open-air history museum just outside the centre of Östersund, and one of the best of its kind in Scandinavia — which means one of the best in the world. The outdoor section reconstructs Jämtland farm life from the 18th and 19th centuries using original relocated buildings, with costumed interpreters who work in the buildings, cook on open hearths, tend animals, and interact with visitors without breaking the historical frame. In summer the effect is immersive in a way that photographs can't convey.

The indoor museum building holds a strong collection covering Jämtland's history from the Stone Age through the 20th century, including the Överhogdal tapestries in their own dedicated gallery. There's also a good exhibition on the history and culture of the Sami people of the region. The museum café serves traditional Jämtland food — open sandwiches with cured reindeer, coffee served the Swedish way — and the whole site is large enough to occupy a full half-day comfortably. Buy a combined ticket that includes both the outdoor area and the indoor museum.

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A story
Jamtli holds the Överhogdal tapestries, a set of five textile panels discovered in a church loft in 1910 and dating to around 1000 AD — one of the oldest surviving textile artworks in the world. The tapestries show a vivid and puzzling mixture of Christian and Norse imagery: horses, ships, a tree of life, figures that may be Odin, scenes that could be the Revelation of John. They were made at the hinge point between the old religion and the new, and nobody is entirely certain what they depict. The originals are in the museum's climate-controlled gallery; the impact of standing in front of cloth that is a thousand years old and still shows its colours is considerable.